Four Days in Florence

I probably have over 300,000 photos floating around — film and digital. Now that I’ve quit running a publishing business, I’ve got time to look through the files. Fun!

I’m going to try out some mainly graphic posts. Not in chronological order, of course.

Feedback appreciated.

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In 2021, there was an exhibit of Shelter books and models derived therefrom at the Biennale Architettura in Venice, put together by architect Leopold Banchini and curator Lukas Feireiss. It was an incredible honor: this is the semi-annual international exhibition of architecture from nations all over the world. Over 300,000 people attended that year, and our exhibit was prominently at the entrance. (I’ll post photos of it at a later date.}

After spending four days in Venice with Lukas, then visiting Leopold in Mendriso in the Italian-speaking region of Switzerland, and doing a presentation for his class at the Accademia di Architettura of the University, I took off with my backpack on the train for Florence.

I got off the train, found a nearby hotel, and spent a wonderful four days in Florence. It was kind of like my no-plans-in-advance hostel trip to Europe in 1957.

Here are some photos from that trip.

My main objective in Florence was to see the Duomo, the remarkable double-shelled octagonal dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the largest masonry dome ever built.

I used the Photoshop “Photomerge” command to paste together 4 shots above. There are some weirdnesses in the stitching together, like the tail end of the truck that passed by (to the right of the man walking) during the 4th shot. The problem is with photographing buildings when you can’t get far enough back to get proper perspective. I used to solve this somewhat with a parallax correction lens on my old Nikons, but iPhones have no such options. Anyway, you get the idea (if imperfect) here.

The building, along with Giotto’s bell tower, is just staggering in design, construction and materials (polychrome marble), and this angle doesn’t even include Brunelleschi’s dome (at rear). See below for side view of entire cathedral.

What was fascinating to me (as it is to any builder) is the fact that the double-shelled dome was built without any interior supports, due to Brunelleschi’s unique pattern of laying bricks in a herringbone pattern. Built 500 years ago, is still the largest brick dome in the world.

How Brunelleschi Built the World's Biggest Dome: https://science.howstuffworks.com/engineering/architecture/brunelleschis-dome.htm#:~:text=%22To%20construct%20the%20brick%20walls,more%20inclined%2C%22%20Wildman%20says.

Herringbone pattern explained: https://www.visitflorenceduomo.com/brunelleschis-dome-brick-pattern/

Above is a fascinating 50-minute BBC summary of the building of the duomo. This photo shows the duomo from the side view. My large collage photo above this one is the front of the cathedral, hidden here behind the tower at left.

I bought a ticket for about $20 and walked up the 473 steps to the top of the dome early one morning, came half-way back down, and looked at The Last Judgment painting on the interior of the dome.

On the interior of the dome: The Last Judgment, by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari

Here's what happens to you if you don't follow the Catholic Church's mandates. Ah, Christianity… (George Carlin did a wonderful bit on the bullshit of religion. After describing the unspeakable horrors that await sinners, George says, "But He loves you!"

Firenze is a great town for wandering. Here are a few shots one night:

A wonderful little shop, with all kinds of hand-made notebooks, writing implements, leather bookmarks, etc.

Italian food is so superior. My friend Louie told me about the word abbondanza, meaning “abundance,” as something an Italian might say when experiencing a wonderful meal, or sitting in a wonderful kitchen.

I’d guess this to be a street vendor’s booth, folded up and battened down for the night. A portable storefront — low rent.